H

Habrothamnus.—These beautiful evergreen shrubs require greenhouse
culture, and to be grown in sandy loam and leaf-mould. The majority of
them flower in spring. Height, 4 ft. to 6 ft.

Halesia Tetraptera (Snowdrop Tree).—This elegant shrub will grow
in any soil, and may be propagated by cuttings of the roots or by
layers. The pendent white flowers are produced close to the branches in
June. Height, 8 ft.

Hamamelis (Witch Hazel).—An ornamental shrub which will grow in
ordinary soil, but thrives best in a sandy one. It is increased by
layers. May is its season for flowering. Height, 12 ft. to 15 ft. H.
Arborea is a curious small tree, producing brownish-yellow flowers in
mid-winter.

Harpalium Rigidum.—A hardy perennial, producing very fine yellow
flowers in the autumn. It will grow in any good garden soil, and may be
propagated by seed sown in early autumn, or by division of the roots.
Height, 3 ft.

Hawkweed.—See "Crepis" and "Hieracium."

Heartsease.—See "Pansies."

Heaths, Greenhouse.—For their successful growth Heaths require a
well-drained soil, composed of three parts finely pulverised peat and
one part silver sand, free ventilation, and a careful supply of water,
so that the soil is always damp. If they suffer a check they are hard to
bring round, especially the hard-wooded kinds. Some of the soft-wooded
Heaths, such as the H. Hyemalis, are easier of management. After they
have flowered they may be cut hard back, re-potted, and supplied with
liquid manure. The stout shoots thus obtained will bloom the following
season. (See also "Ericas.")

Hedera.—See "Ivy."

Hedychium Gardnerianum.—A hothouse herbaceous plant, delighting in
a rich, light soil, plenty of room in the pots for the roots, and a good
amount of sunshine. In the spring a top-dressing of rich manure and soot
should be given. From the time the leaves begin to expand, and all
through its growing stage, it needs plenty water, and an occasional
application of liquid manure. The foliage should not be cut off when it
dies, but allowed to remain on all the winter. While the plant is
dormant keep it rather dry and quite free from frost. It may be
increased by dividing the roots, but it blooms best when undisturbed.
July is its flowering month. Height, 6 ft.

Hedysarum.—Hardy perennials, requiring a light, rich soil, or loam
and peat. They may be raised from seed, or increased by dividing the
roots in spring. H. Multijugum bears rich purple flowers. Height, 6 in.
to 3 ft.

Heleniums.—The Pumilum is a very pretty hardy perennial that may
be grown in any soil, and increased by dividing the roots. It produces
its golden flowers in August. Height, 1-1/2 ft. H. Autumnale is also
easy to grow, but flowers a month later than the Pumilum, and attains a
height of 3 ft. H. Bigelowi is the best of the late autumn-flowering
species, producing an abundance of rich yellow flowers with purple
discs. Flowers in August. Height, 3-1/2 ft.

Helianthemum Alpinum (Rock Roses).—These hardy perennials are
best grown in sandy loam and peat, and may be increased by cuttings
placed under glass in a sheltered situation. Bloom in June or July.
Height, 1 ft.

Helianthus (Sunflowers).—The tall variety is a very stately
plant, suitable for the background or a corner of the border. Well-grown
flowers have measured 16 in. in diameter. The miniature kinds make fine
vase ornaments. They grow in any garden soil, and are easily increased
by seed raised on a hotbed in spring and afterwards transplanted. The
perennials may be propagated by division of the root. They produce their
flowers in August. Height, 3 ft. to 6 ft.

Helichrysum.—Fine everlasting hardy annuals, that grow best in a
mixture of three parts peat and one part sandy loam. May be readily
raised from seed sown in a cold frame in March, or cuttings taken off at
a joint will strike in peat and sand. Bloom during July and August. For
winter decoration the flowers should be gathered in a young state, as
they continue to develop after being gathered. Height, 1 ft. to 6 ft,
but most of them are 2 ft. high.

Heliophila.—Pretty little hardy annuals, thriving best in sandy
loam and peat. Sow the seed early in spring in pots placed in a gentle
hotbed, and plant out in May. They flower in June. Height, 9 in.

Heliopsis.—This hardy perennial is useful for cutting purposes,
the flowers being borne on long stalks, and lasting for two or three
weeks in water. It is not particular as to soil, and may be increased by
dividing the roots. Height, 5 ft.

Heliotrope.—Commonly called Cherry Pie. Sow the seed early in
spring in light, rich soil in a little heat, and plant out in May. The
best plants, however, are obtained from cuttings taken off when young,
in the same way as Verbenas and bedding Calceolarias. They are very
sensitive to frost. Flower in June. Height, 1 ft.

Helipterium.—A half-hardy annual, bearing everlasting flowers. It
should receive the same treatment as Helichrysum. Blooms in May or June.
Height, 2 ft.

Helleborus (Christmas Rose).—As its name implies, the Hellebore
flowers about Christmas, and that without any protection whatever. The
foliage is evergreen, and of a dark colour. When the plant is once
established it produces flowers in great abundance. The plants of the
white-flowered variety should be protected with a hand-light when the
flower-buds appear, in order to preserve the blossoms pure and clean.
Any deeply-dug rich garden soil suits it, and it is most at home under
the shade of a tree. It prefers a sheltered situation, and during the
summer months a mulching of litter and an occasional watering will be
beneficial. Readily increased by division in spring or seed. Height, 1
ft.

Helonias Bullata.—A pretty herbaceous plant, bearing dense racemes
of purple-rose flowers from June to August. It grows best in peat, in a
moist position. It can be raised from seed or increased by division of
the roots. Height 1-1/2 ft.

Hemerocallis (Day Lily).—Old-fashioned plants of great merit.
Planted in large clumps they produce a grand effect. They are easily
grown in any common garden soil, and bloom in July. Height, 3 ft. H.
Kwanso has handsome, variegated foliage.

Hemp.—See "Canna" and "Cannabis."

Hepatica.—This enjoys a rather light, sandy soil and a shady
situation. The roots should be taken up and divided every second year.
Well adapted for surrounding beds or clumps of Rhododendrons. Flowers in
March. Height, 4 in.

Heracleum.—Coarse hardy biennials, that may be grown in any kind
of soil, and are readily raised from seed. They flower at midsummer.
Height, 2 ft. to 4 ft.

Herbs.—Thyme, Marjoram, Chervil, Basil, Burnet, Hyssop, Savory,
etc., should be sown early in spring, in dry, mild weather, in narrow
drills about 1/2 in. deep and 8 or 9 in. apart, covered evenly with
soil, and transplanted when strong enough. Mint is quickly increased by
separating the roots in spring, and covering them with 1 in. of earth.
Sage is propagated by slips of the young shoots taken either in spring
or autumn. If planted in light soil and in a sunny position it produces
very fragrant flowers. Chives should be planted 6 or 8 in. apart: they
are increased by division in spring. Penny Royal, like mint generally,
will grow from very small pieces of the root; it needs to be frequently
transplanted, and to be kept from a damp condition. Rosemary will grow
from cuttings planted under glass in a shady spot. Thyme likes a light,
rich soil, and bears division. Sorrel will grow in any soil, and the
roots should be divided every two or three years. Chamomile roots are
divided and subdivided in spring. Herbs should be harvested on a fine
day, just before they are in full bloom. Tie them up in small bunches
and hang in the shade to dry, then wrap in paper and store in air-tight
vessels, or rub the leaves to a powder and keep in tightly-corked
bottles. They will retain their strength for a long time.

Herbs, the Uses of Sweet and Pot.—

ANGELICA.—A biennial. Leaves and stalks are eaten raw or boiled; the
seeds are aromatic, and used to flavour spirits.

ANISE.—Leaves used for garnishing, and for seasoning, like fennel;
the seeds are medicinal.

BALM.—A hardy perennial. Makes a useful tea and wine for fevers.

BASIL, Sweet and Bush.—Half-hardy annuals. The leaves and tops
of the shoots, on account of their clove-like flavour, are used for
seasoning soups and introduced into salads.

BORAGE.—Hardy annual. Used for salads and garnishing, and as an
ingredient in cool drinks; excellent also for bees.

CHAMOMILE.—A hardy perennial. Flowers used medicinally.

CARAWAY.—A biennial. Leaves used in soups, and the seeds in
confectionery and medicine.

CHERVIL.—An annual. Useful for salads.

CHIVES.—Hardy perennial. The young tops used to flavour soups, etc.

CORIANDER.—A hardy annual. Cultivated for garnishing.

DILL.—A hardy perennial. Leaves used in soups and sauces, also in
pickles.

FENNEL.—Hardy perennial. Used in salads and in fish sauce, also for
garnishing dishes.

HOREHOUND.—Hardy perennial. Leaves and young shoots used for making a
beverage for coughs.

HYSSOP.—Hardy evergreen shrub. Leaves and young shoots used for
making tea; also as a pot herb.

LAVENDER.—Hardy perennial. Cultivated for its flowers, for the
distillation of lavender water, for flavouring sauces, and for medicinal
purposes.

MARIGOLD, Pot.—Hardy annual. Flowers used in soups.

MARJORAM, Sweet or Knotted, and Pot.—Hardy annuals. Aromatic and
sweet flavour. Used for stuffings and as a pot herb; leaves dried for
winter use.

RAMPION.—Hardy perennial. Roots used as a radish; they have a nutty
flavour.

ROSEMARY.—Hardy ornamental shrub. Sprigs used for garnishing and the
leaves in drink.

RUE.—Hardy evergreen shrub. Leaves used for medicinal drinks; useful
for poultry with croup.

SAGE.—Hardy perennial. Decoction of leaves drank as tea; used also
for stuffing, meats, and sauces.

SAVORY, Summer.—Hardy annual. Used for flavouring soups and
salads.

SAVORY, Winter.—Hardy evergreen shrub. Its aromatic flavour
makes it valuable as a pot herb.

SCURVY GRASS.—The small leaves are eaten as watercress.

SKIRRET.—Hardy perennial. Sweet, white, and pleasant; the tubers are
boiled and served up with butter.

SORREL, Broad-Leaved.—Hardy perennial. Imparts an acid flavour
to salads and soups.

THYME, Broad-Leaved.—Hardy perennial. Young leaves and tops used
for stuffing, also in soups and sauces.

TARRAGON.—Hardy perennial. For flavouring vinegar; also used in
salads, soups, and pickles.

WORMWOOD.—A hardy shrub. Beneficial to horses and poultry, and is
used for medical purposes.

Herniaria Glabra.—These dwarf carpeting plants are of easy
culture. Grow from seed in spring and transplant into sandy soil.
Height, 1-1/2 in.

Hesperis.—See "Rocket."

Heuchera.—Very neat, but not showy, hardy American perennials.
They may be grown in any ordinary light garden soil, are increased by
dividing the root, and bloom in May. Height, 1 ft. to 2 ft.

Hibbertia Dentata.—An evergreen twining plant, requiring a
greenhouse for its cultivation and a soil of sandy loam and peat. It
flowers in July, and is increased by cuttings taken in spring or summer
and kept under glass. Height, 6 ft.

Hibiscus Africanus.—A handsome hardy annual Mallow. Sow in March
in slight heat, and plant out in May 10 in. apart. Grows best in a
mixture of loam and peat. Blooms in June. Height, 2 ft.

Hibiscus Syriacus (Rose of Sharon).—A hardy, deciduous,
autumn-flowering shrub, which will grow in common soil, and may be
propagated by seeds, layers, or cuttings planted under glass. Height, 6
ft.

Hieracium (Hawkweed).—A free-growing hardy perennial, suitable
for a sunny bank or border. It is not particular as to soil. From June
to September it produces orange-brown flowers. It grows freely from
seed, and the roots bear division. Height, 1-1/2 ft.

Hippeastrums.—See "Amaryllis."

Hippocrepis.—Very pretty hardy trailing perennials, covered from
May to July with golden Pea-shaped flowers. They will grow in any light,
sandy soil, and may be increased by cuttings, which root readily under
glass. Height, 3 in. to 6 in.

Hippophae.—Ornamental shrubs, thriving in ordinary soil, and
increased by layers or cuttings of the roots. H. Rhamnoides (Sea
Buckthorn) flowers in May. Height, 12 ft.

Holboellia Latifolia.—See "Stauntonia Latifolia."

Holly (Ilex).—This pleasing hardy evergreen shrub thrives best
on a deep, sandy loam, but will grow in any good soil, provided the
position is dry. It succeeds well in the shade. Cuttings of young shoots
having 1 in. of the old wood attached will strike root, but the plant is
of very slow growth, and takes at least four years to grow into a good
bush. Choice varieties may be grafted or budded on to the common sorts
in June or July. To grow Holly from seed, gather the berries when ripe,
crush them, and mix them up with a little sandy loam, bury them in a
hole 3 ft. deep, and cover with litter. Dig them up and sow them in
March. Big bushes are best moved at the end of August, mixing the earth
to a puddle before planting. The less pruning they receive the better.
They may be trimmed in spring.

Hollyhock.—May be raised from seed or cuttings. Sow the seed about
the second week of March in very rich soil, and cover it with 1 in. of
dry earth. In June (having soaked the bed thoroughly overnight) remove
the young plants to a nursery-bed, setting them 6 in. apart. Press the
earth firmly round the roots, and water plentifully until settled. In
the autumn plant them where they are to bloom. Cuttings may be taken as
soon as the flowers appear, or from the old plants in autumn. Each joint
having an eye will furnish a plant. Select side branches having two or
three joints and leaves. Cut the shoots through just under the lower
joint, leaving the leaf entire; cut it also about 2 in. above the joint.
Plant in equal parts of loam, gritty sand, and leaf-mould; shelter from
the sun, and sprinkle them every day in fine weather with water. If the
cuttings are taken in autumn pot them off in 60-sized pots, and keep
them in a cold frame till the spring, when they may be planted out.
Flowers in August. Height, 6 ft.

Homerias.—Beautiful little South African plants. For out-door
cultivation plant the bulbs in a dry, warm situation, from October to
January, 3 in. deep, and the same distance apart, in rich, light,
well-drained soil, and protect them from heavy rains with a good layer
of leaves. For pot culture put four or five bulbs in a 5-in. pot, place
in a cold frame, and cover with cocoa-nut fibre until the growth
appears. Water moderately, and when the flowers fade abstain from
supplying moisture. The bulbs are not quite hardy, therefore they should
be removed indoors before frosts appear.

Homogyne Alpina.—Hardy herbaceous plants flowering in April. Any
soil is suitable for them, and they may be increased by division.
Height, 6 in.

Honesty (Lunaria).—Interesting hardy biennials. When dried, the
shining seed-pods make a handsome addition to winter bouquets, mixed
with ornamental grass. Any common soil suits them. Sow the seed any time
from April to June, and transplant them to the border in the autumn for
flowering the following May. Height, 1-1/2 ft. to 3 ft.

Honeysuckles.—These rapid twiners thrive in any loamy soil, and
may be increased by putting down layers in the autumn, after the leaves
begin to fall. They can also be propagated by cuttings taken in the
autumn and planted in a shady, sheltered spot. Caprifolium Brachypoda
and the evergreen C. Sempervirens are handsome, free-flowering kinds,
suitable for almost any situation. C. Aurea-reticulata has beautifully
variegated leaves, which render it very ornamental. Height, 6 ft. to 8
ft.

Hop.—A useful hardy climber for covering verandahs, summer-houses,
etc. Plant in rich, loamy soil, and increase by dividing the roots.
(See also "Humulus Japonicus.")

Hordeum Jubatum (Squirrel-tail Grass).—A very pretty species
resembling miniature barley. Sow seed in March, covering it very
lightly, and keep the surface of the soil moist till the grass appears.
Height, 1-1/2 ft.

Horminum Pyrenaicum.—This hardy perennial produces erect white
flowers with blue corolla in June or July. It will grow in any ordinary
soil, but needs protection in winter, as it is apt to be injured by
damp. It may be propagated either by seed or division. Height, 1-1/2 ft.

Horn Poppy.—See "Glaucium."

Horseradish.—Plant in October or February in deep, rich soil; or
it may be grown on a heap of cinder-ashes, or on any light ground
through which the roots can make their way readily. The best way to
increase it is by slips taken from the roots. It requires little or no
attention beyond pinching out the tops when running to seed and keeping
the ground hoed.

Hotbeds, to Make.—Take dead leaves and stable-straw, with the
dung, in the proportion of two double loads for a three-light frame.
Turn it over four or five times during a fortnight, watering it if it is
dry. Then mark out the bed, allowing 1 ft. or more each way than the
size of the frame. Shake the compost well up, and afterwards beat it
down equally with the fork. Place the frame on the bed, leaving the
lights off for four or five days to allow the rank steam to escape. Keep
a thermometer in the frame, and as soon as the temperature falls below
70 degrees apply a lining of fresh dung to the front and one side of the
bed, and when this again declines, add another lining to the back and
other side, and so on from time to time as occasion requires. The mats
used for covering the frames in frosty weather should be made to fit the
top, and not hang over the sides.

Houseleek.—See "Sempervivum."

Houstonia Coerulea.—These hardy little evergreens are more
generally known as Bluets. They make charming ornaments for rock-work,
planted between large stones, but in this position they need protection
from severe frosts. When planted in pots and placed in a cold frame they
show to most advantage. A mixture of leaf-mould and sand, and a moist
but well-drained situation is what they delight in. They bloom
continuously from April to July. Height, 3 in.

Hovea Celsi.—A greenhouse shrub, which is evergreen and elegant
when in flower in June. A sandy loam and peat soil is most suitable, and
it may be increased by cuttings planted in sand under a hand-glass.
Height, 3 ft.

Humea.—A remarkably handsome and graceful plant, the leaves of
which when slightly bruised yield a strong odour. It is equally suitable
for the centre of beds or large borders, and placed in pots on terraces
or the lawn it is very effective. The seed should be raised on a gentle
hotbed, then potted off and kept in the greenhouse till the second year,
when it may be turned out into a warm situation. It generally succeeds
better in such a position than in the greenhouse. Flowers in July.
Height, 6 ft. to 8 ft.

Humulus Japonicus.—(Japanese Hop).—A hardy annual Hop of rapid
growth, the leaves of which are splashed with white. Useful for covering
arbours, verandahs, etc. A deep, loamy soil suits it best. Increased by
seed sown in gentle heat in February, and gradually hardened off.
Flowers in July. Height, 20 ft.

Hutchinsia Alpina.—This small alpine creeper is a profuse bloomer,
its glistening white flowers being produced at all seasons. It grows in
moist vegetable mould, and bears transplanting at any season. Care,
however, is required to prevent its roots over-running and choking other
things. Height, 2 in.

Hyacinths.—May be grown in pots, in glasses, or in beds and
borders. The soil should be rich and light. Good loam mixed with old
manure and a little leaf-mould and sand suits them very well. If
intended to be grown in pots the best time to begin potting is early in
September, putting more in at intervals of two or three weeks until the
end of December. One bulb is sufficient for a 5-in. or 6-in. pot, or
three may be placed in an 8-in. pot. The soil under the bulb should not
be pressed down. The top of the bulb should be just above the surface.
Place the pots on a bed of ashes in a cold frame, put a small inverted
pot over the top of the bulb, and cover the whole with cocoa-nut fibre
or cinder-ashes to the depth of about 4 in. In about a month roots will
have formed with about 1 in. of top growth. The plants may then be taken
out, gradually exposed to the light, and finally removed to the
conservatory or sunny window. The doubles do best in pots.

For growing in glasses select the firmest and best-shaped bulbs. Those
with single blossoms are preferable, as they are of stronger
constitution than the doubles. Fill the glasses with pure pond or rain
water, so that the bulbs just escape touching it, and put a piece of
charcoal in each glass, and change the water when it becomes offensive,
taking care that the temperature is not below that which is poured away.
Stand the glasses in a cool, dark place for three or four weeks until
the roots have made considerable progress, then gradually inure to the
full light. September is a good time to start the growth.

When planted in beds or borders, place the bulbs about 4 in. deep and 6
in. apart, putting a little silver sand below each one. This may be done
at any time from October till frost sets in. They succeed fairly well in
any good garden soil, but give greatest satisfaction when the ground is
rich and light.

Hyacinthus (Muscari).—A very hardy race of spring-flowering
bulbs. Though the varieties are very dissimilar in appearance, they all
produce a good effect, especially when planted in good large clumps.
Plant from September to December. A sandy soil suits them best. The
following are well-known varieties:—BOTRYOIDES (Grape
Hyacinth).—Very pretty and hardy, bearing fine spikes of deep, rich
blue flowers in compact clusters on a stem 6 to 9 in. high.
Sweet-scented, and blooms about May. The Alba, or white, variety is
also sweet-scented.

Hyacinthus—continued.

CANDICANS (Galtonia).—The white Cape Hyacinth, or Spire Lily. A
hardy, summer-flowering, bulbous plant 3 ft. to 4 ft. in height,
gracefully surmounted with from twenty to fifty pendent, bell-shaped
snow-white flowers. Thrives in any position and equally suitable for
indoor or outdoor decoration.

MOSCHATUS (Musk Hyacinth).—Bears very fragrant purplish flowers.

PLVMOSUM (Feather Hyacinth).—A fine, hardy, dwarf plant suitable
for any soil. Its massive sprays of fine blue flowers, arranged in
curious clusters, 5 to 6 in. in length, resemble much-branched slender
coral.

RACEMOSUM (Starch Hyacinth).—Rich dark-blue or reddish-purple
flowers. Very free-flowering and fine for massing. It is similar to the
Cape Hyacinth, but flowers in denser spikes.

Hydrangea.—This shrub delights in a moist, sheltered position and
rich soil. It may be increased at any time from cuttings of the young
side-shoots, 2 or 3 in. long, under glass, in sandy soil. The old stems
will also strike if planted in a sheltered situation. The plants should
be cut back when they have done flowering, and protected from frost; or
they may be cut down to the root and covered with manure. They are well
suited for the front of shrubberies, and also make fine plants for pot
cultivation. The flowers are produced in June and July. Height, 3 ft.

Hymenanthera Crassifolia.—Ornamental evergreen shrubs, thriving
best in a compost of loam and peat. They are increased by cuttings
planted in sand and subjected to a little heat. Height, 6 ft.

Hymenoxys.—Pretty little hardy annuals that may be easily raised
from seed sown early in March in any garden soil. They bloom in June.
Height, 1 ft.

Hypericum (St. John's Wort).—Favourite dwarf shrubs. Any soil
suits the hardy kinds, but they prefer shade and moisture. These may be
increased by seed or division. The greenhouse varieties thrive best in a
mixture of loam and peat. Young cuttings placed in sand under glass will
strike. July is their flowering season. Height, 1-1/2 ft. to 2 ft.

G

Gages.—The cultivation of Gages is similar to that of Plums. In
the open they may be grown as dwarfs or pyramids, and in orchard-houses
as gridirons, cordons, or in pots. The chief points to observe are to
thin the branches in order to admit plenty of light into the middle of
the tree, thus inducing the production of a plentiful supply of fruit
spurs, and to occasionally lift and root-prune the tree if growing too
strong. Among the choicest sorts are: Bonne Bouche (producing its fruit
at the end of August), Coe's Golden Drop (end of September), Old Green
Gage (August), Guthrie's Late Green Gage (September), M'Laughlin's Gage
(end of August), Oullin's Golden Gage (end of August), and Reine Claude
de Bavay (beginning of October).

Gaillardia (Blanket Flower).—Very ornamental flowers, which will
grow in any common soil, but thrive most in a light, rich one. Seeds of
the annual kinds are sown in the spring. The perennials are increased by
dividing the roots. Bloom in July. Height, 1 ft. to 2 ft.

Galanthus.—See "Snowdrops."

Galax Aphylla (Wand Plant).—The Heart-shaped Galax is a charming
little plant for rock-work. It is perennial, and does not lose the old
leaves till the new ones appear. A rich, light mould is required for its
growth, and its situation should be a somewhat shady one. Its flowers
are borne in July and August, on stalks 1 ft. or more high. The plant
may be increased by taking up a strong clump, shaking it apart, and
transplanting at once. (See also "Shortia.")

Galega (Goats Rue).—Ornamental hardy perennials, requiring
plenty of room. They are readily increased by seed or division of the
root, and flower in July. Height, 3 ft. to 4 ft.

Galium.—This hardy herbaceous plant blooms in July. It will grow
in any soil, and can be increased by division of the root. Height, 1 ft.

Gardenias.—Plant in a hothouse in fibrous peat mixed with a large
proportion of sand. Give plenty of heat and moisture during growth, with
a thin shade to keep off the sun's midday rays. Lower the temperature as
soon as growth is completed, and in the middle of summer stand the
plants out in the open for a week or two for the wood to ripen. Height,
3 ft.

Garlic.—Plant small cloves from February to April in rows 9 in.
apart and 6 in. from each other in the row. Lift them when the leaves
die down, dry them in the sunshine, and store in an airy, cool shed.

Garrya Elliptica.—A hardy evergreen shrub, which is very suitable
in its early stages for pot-culture. A light, loamy soil is what it
likes. Cuttings taken in August and placed in sand under a hand-glass
will strike freely, but it is most readily increased by layers. In
October it bears graceful yellowish-green tassels of flowers from the
ends of its shoots. Height, 6 ft.

Gasteria Verrucosa.—This plant grows best in pots of turfy loam
and leaf-mould, to which has been added a little old mortar. Good
drainage is essential. Water freely in summer, and keep just moist in
winter. Keep the foliage clean by sponging. Give plenty of light, and
during warm weather turn the plants out of doors.

Gastrolobium.—Elegant evergreen shrubs which flower in April and
May. They are most suitable for adorning the greenhouse, and grow best
in a soil of loamy peat and sand. Cuttings of half-ripened wood planted
under glass will take root. Height, 2 ft.

Gaultheria.—Dwarf, creeping evergreen shrubs, having dark foliage
and producing white flowers in May, June, or July. They require to be
grown in peat, and are increased by layers. G. Procumbens is suitable
for rockeries, as it only grows to the height of 6 in. G. Shallon
attains the height of 2 ft.

Gaura Lindheimeri.—This free-flowering, hardy, herbaceous plant
will thrive in any light, rich soil. It bears elegant spikes of white
flowers from May onwards, followed by red bracts in September, and is
readily propagated by seeds. Height, 4 ft.

Gazania Splendens.—A showy greenhouse plant. It may be planted in
the open in warm positions, but will require protecting in winter. Grow
it in peat and loam. Cuttings will strike if placed in sand under glass.
It flowers in July. Height, 1 ft.

Genethyllis.—Greenhouse evergreen shrubs which thrive best in
sandy loam and peat. Cuttings of the young wood planted in the same soil
and plunged in heat will take root. Their flowering season is in August.
Height, 3 ft.

Genista (Broom).—G. Canariense is an exceedingly ornamental and
free-flowering greenhouse shrub. It should be planted in a mixture of
loam, peat, and sand. Young cuttings inserted in sand under a glass take
root readily. It blooms in June. Height, 2 ft. Hardy species of Genista
may be placed in the front of shrubberies. They are increased by seeds
or by layers.

Gentians.—The herbaceous kinds do best in a light, rich soil, such
as loam and peat mixed with vegetable mould. The annuals are raised from
seed sown as soon as it is ripe; if left till spring before it is sown
it will probably not come up till the second year. The perennials are
increased by dividing the roots. Both of the latter kinds do best in a
dry, sandy soil. Gentiana Acaulis, or Gentianella, is very suitable for
edgings, or for rock-work; it is an evergreen creeper, and bears large
trumpet-shaped flowers of rich ultramarine blue. All the Gentians need
plenty of free air, and some of them moisture at the roots. Bloom in
July. Height, 4 in. to 2 ft.

Geranium Argentium(Silvery Crane's-Bill).—This hardy perennial
alpine is very effective on rock-work, especially in front of dark
stones; but provision must be made for its long tap roots. A rich, deep
loam suits it well. Its seeds germinate freely when sown in peat and
sand. Flowers are borne from May to July. Height, 6 in.

Geraniums.—Take cuttings in July or August, and let them he to
partially dry for twenty-four hours before planting. When rooted pot
them off in 60's, and keep them under glass during the winter at a
temperature of 55 degrees. If the cuttings are taken in September put
three or four slips in a 48-size pot. In the spring they should be
re-potted singly and hardened off as early as possible. A suitable soil
for them is made by mixing two parts of good turfy loam, one of
leaf-mould, one of well-decomposed cow-dung, and a good proportion of
silver sand. Bone dust is an excellent addition to the soil. Old plants
stripped of their leaves may be packed in sand during the winter, and
re-potted in spring.

Gerardia.—These hardy perennials form pyramidal bushes bearing
Pentstemon-like flowers, thickly set and varying in colour from light
pink to dark purple. A peat soil suits them best. They may be propagated
by cuttings placed under glass, but are best grown from seed. July is
their flowering season. Height, 1 ft. to 2 ft.

German Seeds.—These require to be sown in a cold frame in
seed-pans, in the greenhouse, or under a handglass, in good, rich
compost, composed of old turf, leaf-mould, some well-rotted manure, and
silver sand. The seeds should be sown thinly and watered sparingly. Sow
early in April, and transplant in the middle or end of May in rich soil.
Water occasionally with weak liquid manure.

Gesneria.—Handsome greenhouse perennials. They thrive in any
light, rich soil. Cuttings will strike readily either in sand or soil if
placed under glass in heat. They may also be raised from seed sown in a
temperature of 75 degrees in March or April. They flower in October.
Height, 18 in.

Geum.—Very handsome hardy perennials. They grow well in any light,
rich, loamy soil, and may be increased either by seeds or by dividing
the roots. G. Coccineum is extremely pretty. Flower in July. Height, 18
in.

Gherkins.—Sow the seed the first week in April in small pots, and
cover it lightly with fine soil. Plunge the pots in a hotbed covered
with a frame. When grown to nice little plants, remove them to a cold
frame to harden, and plant them out on a warm border towards the end of
May. When the fruit begins to form, give liquid manure twice a week. For
pickling they must be cut while small.

Gilia.—Extremely pretty and free-flowering hardy annuals,
deserving of a place in every garden. They are very suitable for small
beds. They should be sown in the open early in spring. G. Tricolour may
be sown in autumn. Bloom in July. Height, 1 ft.

Gillenia Trifoliata.—The Three-Leaved Gillenia is a hardy
herbaceous perennial which is very useful as a cut flower for the
decoration of vases, etc. It should be grown in large clumps, delights
in a deep, moist soil and partial shade, and may be propagated by
dividing the roots early in spring. It lasts in bloom from June to
August. Height, 1 ft.

Gladiolus.—Dig the ground out to a depth of 1 ft. or 15 in.; put in a
layer of leaf-mould or rotted manure, and then 4 or 5 in. of earth mixed
with sand; insert the bulbs (6 in. from the surface and 9 in. apart),
cover them with 1 in. of sand, and fill up with earth. In frosty weather
cover with a thick layer of litter. Give plenty of water when they begin
to throw up their flower-stems. They may be planted at any time between
December and the end of March. If planted late in the season, a depth of
3 or 4 in. is enough. The roots must be kept dry in winter. They are
increased by off-sets, taken when the bulbs are removed from the ground
after the leaves have turned yellow. These should be planted at once in
well-drained earth. If early flowers are required, plant the old bulbs
in pots (three to six bulbs being placed in a 5-in. pot) any time
between December and March. Give them frame culture up to the second
week in May, when they may be transferred to the border. The flowers are
invaluable for vase decoration.

Glaucium Flavum Tricolor (Hardy Horn Poppy).—The large,
brilliant, orange-red flowers of this plant are very effective in the
border, and the bloom is continuous during the greater part of the
summer. The seed is rather slow to germinate, but when sown in the open
ground in autumn, it blooms from June to August; when sown in early
spring it flowers from July to September. Height, 2 ft.

Glaux Maritima (Sea Milkweed).—A pretty little hardy trailing
plant bearing flesh-coloured flowers in June and July. It grows in sandy
loam, and is raised from seed sown in spring. Height, 3 in.

Globe Amaranthus (Gomphrena).—This tender annual is well known
for its clover-like heads of everlasting flowers. It will grow in any
rich soil, but to produce really fine plants, much attention must be
given to shifting, watering, etc. Increased by seed in the same manner
as other tender annuals. Blooms in July. Height, 1 ft.

Globe Flower.—See "Trollius."

Globe Thistle.—See "Echinops."

Globularia Trichosantha.—A pretty dwarf perennial rock-plant
bearing pale blue flowers in May and June. It is hardy, thrives in
light, sandy soil, and is increased by either seeds or cuttings planted
in sand. Height, 6 in. The greenhouse varieties of Globularia grow best
in loam and peat.

Glory of the Snow.—See "Chionodoxa."

Gloxinias.—A very ornamental family of tuberous-rooted hothouse
plants. They are of two classes, the drooping and the erect. Pot at any
time during January and March in a mixture of equal quantities of loam,
peat, and sand, with the addition of a little vegetable soil, and place
in a warm (60 degrees), moist temperature, where they can be favoured
with a little shade. In summer supply the roots plentifully with water,
but give them very little in winter. Overhead watering is likely to rot
the leaves and flowers. G. Maculata is increased by division. The leaves
of most of the others, if taken off close to the stem, and planted, will
soon make young plants. They may be raised from seed sown from March to
July in a hothouse or frame having a temperature of 65 to 75 degrees.
They flower in June, and on into September. Height, 6 in. to 1 ft.

Glycine.—See "Wistaria" and "Apios."

Gnaphalium (Edelweiss).—Hardy everlasting flowers, which are
covered with a woolly substance. They may be grown in any light, rich
soil. The shrubby and herbaceous kinds may be increased by cuttings or
division. The annuals are easily raised from seed. They flower in July.
Height, 1 ft.

Goat's Rue.—See "Galega."

Godetia.—Very pretty hardy annuals, that may be grown in any
garden soil. Sow in the autumn for early flowering, or in spring for
later blooms. July is their ordinary season of coming into flower.
Height, 1-1/2 ft. to 2 ft.

Golden Feather.—Hardy annual foliage plants. They are not
particular as to soil, and are easily raised from seed sown early in
spring. They bloom in July. Height, 1 ft.

Golden Rod.—See "Solidago."

Gompholobium.—Delicate greenhouse evergreen shrubs requiring a
soil of sandy loam and peat and but little water. They flower in June,
and are propagated by cuttings planted in sand under glass. Height, 2
ft.

Gomphrena.—See "Globe Amaranthus."

Gooseberries.—From the middle of October to the end of November is
the best time for planting. To produce good crops the soil should be
rich, deep, and well drained. The position should be somewhat cool and
sheltered, and a liberal quantity of liquid manure is beneficial. In dry
seasons mulching may be resorted to with advantage. Cuttings are taken
in autumn as soon as the leaves begin to fall. Select strong shoots
about 1 ft. long. Cut the bottom end straight across, just below a
joint, and with a sharp knife remove all the buds or eyes from the base
to within a couple of inches of the top, so as to prevent the formation
of suckers. Plant the shoots firmly 3 in. deep, in rows 1 ft. apart and
6 in. apart in the rows, on a north border. At the end of the second
season cut back all leading shoots to two-thirds of their length. In
after years remove weak and superfluous branches, as also any that are
growing near the ground, but plenty of young wood must always be left on
the bushes. The pruning may be done either in spring or autumn. The
following varieties may be recommended:—Red, White, and Yellow
Champagne, Wilmot's Early Red, Golden Drop, Ironmonger, and Warrington
Red for dessert; while for preserving and culinary purposes Old Rough
Red, Conquering Hero, Favourite, Broom Girl, British Crown, Ironsides,
Lady Leicester, Thumper, Green Walnut, Leader, and Moreton Hero may be
classed among the leading varieties. When grown in bush form ample room
must be allowed between each to enable one to get round the bushes to
gather the fruit.

Gooseberry Caterpillar.—To prevent caterpillars attacking
Gooseberries syringe the bushes with a decoction of common foxglove
(Digitalis), or dust the leaves with Hellebore powder. If the
caterpillar has begun its attack, sprinkle some fresh lime below the
bushes, and shake the bushes vigorously, so that the insects are
dislodged.

Gorse.—See "Ulex."

Gourds.—Sow at the end of March or the beginning of April on a
slight hotbed; pot off when the plants are sufficiently advanced, and
transplant to the open border in June. They are well adapted for
arbours, trellis-work, or sloping banks. The following are among the
most ornamental:—Abobra Viridiflora, Benincasa Cerifera (Wax Gourd),
Bryonopsis Erythrocarpa, Coccinea Indica (scarlet fruit), Cucumis
Anguinus (Serpent Gourd), Cucumis Dipsaceus (Teasel Gourd), Cucumis
Dudaim (Balloon Gourd), Cucumis Erinaceus (Hedgehog Gourd), Cucumis
Grossularoides (Gooseberry Gourd), Cucumis Perennis, Cucurbita
Argyrosperma, Cucurbita Melopepo, Cyclanthera Explodens (Bombshell
Gourd), Cyclanthera Pedata, Eopepon Aurantiacum, Eopepon Vitifolius,
Lagenaria Clavata (Club Gourd), Lagenaria Enormis, Lagenaria Leucantha
Depressa, Lagenaria Leucantha Longissima, Lagenaria Plate de Corse,
Lagenaria Poire a Poudre, Lagenaria Siphon, Luffa Cylindrica, Luffa
Solly Qua, Melothria Scabra, Momordica Balsamina, Momordica Charantia,
Momordica Elaterium, Mukia Scabrella, Scotanthus Tubiflorus,
Trichosanthes Anguina, Trichosanthes Coccinea, Trichosanthes Colubrina,
and Trichosanthes Palmata.

Grafting.—The objects of Grafting are to bring a bush or tree into
an earlier state of bearing than it would do naturally; to produce good
fruit from an inferior plant; and to save space by putting dwarf scions
on to rampant-growing trees. By the process of uniting strong-growing
trees to those of a weaker nature their exuberance is checked, and
weaker ones are improved by being worked on those of a stronger growth.
Whatever form of Grafting is adopted, the inner layers of the bark of
the stock or tree on which the operation is performed, must be brought
into direct contact with the inner layers of the bark of the branch
which is grafted, or, as it is called, the scion. This scion should be a
branch of the early growth of the previous year's wood, and should be in
the same state of vegetation as the stock. If the scion is in a more
advanced state than the stock, its growth may be stopped by cutting it
off and burying it in the earth under a north wall until the stock has
advanced sufficiently in growth. Grafting of all kinds is best done in
March, when the sap is flowing freely. Many methods of Grafting are
adopted, the following being the principal:—

Whip or Tongue Grafting is suitable for almost any description of trees.
Saw the stock off level at any desired height, then make a deep upward
slanting cut through the bark at the top 2 or 3 in. in length, and in
the middle of the cut turn the knife downwards and cut out a thin
wedge-shaped socket. Next cut the scion in a similar manner so that it
will fit exactly into the incision of the stock, bringing the bark of
each into direct contact. Bind it firmly in position, and cover it over,
from the top of the stock to the bottom of the scion, with grafting wax
or clay. When the scion and the stock are united, which is demonstrated
by the former making growth, remove the wax and cut away all shoots that
may be produced on the stock.

In the French mode of Grafting known as the Bertemboise, the crown of
the stock is cut at a long level, about 1 in. at the top being left
square, and an angular piece is cut away in which the scion is inserted.
It is then bound and waxed over.

Theophrastes or Rind Grafting is used where a tree has strong roots but
inferior fruit. The branches are cut off about 1-1/2 or 2 ft. from the
main stem. A sharp cut 2 or 3 in. in length is made down the bark of the
branches, and the lower parts of the scion, selected from a superior
tree, having been cut into tongues resembling the mouth-piece of a
flageolet, the bark of the branches is lifted with a knife, and the
tongues of the scions are slipped in, bound, and waxed.

Side Grafting is useful where it is desired to replenish the tree with a
fresh branch. A T-shaped cut is made in the stem of the tree,
extending to the inner bark; the scion is prepared by a longitudinal
sloping cut of the same length as that in the stem, into which it is
inserted, and the two are bound together and treated like other grafts.

Approach Grafting is the most favourable method of obtaining choice
varieties of the vine, or of growing weak sorts on roots of a stronger
growth. The scion is generally grown in a pot. A portion of the bark is
cut from both scion and stock while the vine is in active growth, and
the two wounded parts brought into contact, so that they fit exactly.
They are then tied together, and moss (kept constantly wet) is bound
round the parts. The union may be completed by the following spring, but
it is safer to leave the cutting down of the stock to the point of union
and the separation of the scion from the potted plant until the second
spring.

Grafting Wax (Cobbetts), etc.—Pitch and resin four parts
each, beeswax two parts, tallow one part. Melt and mix the ingredients,
and use when just warm. It may be rolled into balls and stored in a dry
place.

Clay bands are frequently employed for excluding the air from wounds
caused in the process of grafting. These are liable to crack, unless the
clay is well kneaded and mixed with wood ashes or dry horse droppings.

Grapes.—The cultivation of Grapes in the open in our cloudy and
changeable climate cannot be looked forward to with any certainty of
success. Two successive favourable seasons are indispensable—one to
ripen the wood, and the next to ripen the fruit. Nevertheless, the
highly ornamental foliage of the vine entitles it to a place on our
walls, and every facility should be afforded for the production of a
chance crop of fruit. The soil most suited to the growth of the vine is
a medium loam, with which is incorporated a quantity of crushed chalk
and half-inch bones. It should be given a south aspect, and be liberally
supplied with water in dry seasons. April is the best time to plant it,
spreading the roots out equally about 9 in. below the surface of the
soil, and mulching with 3 or 4 in. of manure. Should mildew set in,
syringe the vine with a mixture of soapsuds and sulphur. To secure a
continuance of fruit, cut out some of the old rods each year as soon as
the leaves fall, and train young shoots in their places. Last year's
shoots produce other shoots the ensuing summer, and these are the
fruit-bearers. One bunch of grapes is enough for a spur to carry.
Professional gardeners cast off the weight of the bunches, and allow 1
ft. of rod to each pound of fruit. Tie or nail the bunches to the
trellis or wall, and remove all branches or leaves that intercept light
and air.

The vine may be increased by layers at the end of September. Cut a notch
at a bud, and bury it 4 or 5 in. deep, leaving two or three eyes above
ground. It may also be propagated by cuttings, about 1 ft. in length, of
the last year's growth, with 1 in. of old wood attached, taken the
latter end of February. Plant these deep in the ground, leaving one eye
only above the surface. Both the Black Hamburgh and Royal Muscadine
ripen as well as any in the open.

It is under glass only that Grapes can be brought to perfection. Here a
night temperature of 55 to 65 degrees, with a rise of 5 or 10 degrees in
the day, should be maintained, the walls and paths damped once or twice
a day, and the vine syringed frequently until it comes into bloom, when
syringing must cease, and a drier atmosphere is necessary; the moisture
being reduced by degrees. As the grapes ripen, admit more air, and
reduce the heat, otherwise the fruit will shrivel. After gathering the
grapes syringe the vine frequently to clear it from spiders or dust, and
keep the house cool to induce rest to the plant. The fruit may be
preserved for a long while in a good condition by cutting it with about
1 ft. of the rod attached, and inserting the cuttings in bottles of
water in which a piece of charcoal is placed: the bottles to be placed
in racks nailed on to an upright post in any room or cellar where an
equable temperature of 45 or 50 degrees can be kept up. The system of
pruning adopted is that known as spur pruning (see "Pruning"). Mrs.
Pearson is a very fine variety, and produces very sweet berries; the
Frontignan Grizzly Black and White are also delicious.

Grasses, Natural—

AGROSTIS STOLONIFERA (Creeping Bent Grass).—Useful for damp
meadows.

ALOPECURUS PRATENSIS (Meadow Foxtail).—Strong-growing and very
nutritious.

ANTHOXANTHUM ODORATUM (True Sweet Vernal),—Hardy and gives
fragrance to hay.

AVENA FLAVESCENS (Yellow Oat Grass).—Fine for sheep; grows freely
on light soils.

CYNOSURUS CRISTATUS (Crested Dogstail).—Suitable for any soil.

DACTYLIS GLOMERATA (Cocksfoot).—Strong and coarse-growing; cattle
are fond of it.

FESTUCA DURIUSCULA (Hard Fescue).—Dwarf-growing; excellent for
sheep.

FESTUCA ELATIOR (Tall Fescue).—Useful for cold, strong soils.

FESTUCA OVINA (Sheep's Fescue).—Fine for dry, sandy soils.

FESTUCA OVINA TENUIFOLIA (Slender Fescue).—Suitable for mountain
pastures.

FESTUCA PRATENSIS (Meadow Fescue).—Good permanent grass for rich,
moist soil.

PHLEUM PRATENSE (Timothy, or Catstail).—Suitable for strong soils;
nutritious and hardy.

POA NEMORALIS (Wood Meadow Grass).—Good for poor soils.

POA PRATENSIS (Smooth-stalked Meadow Grass).—Grows well on light,
dry soil, and also in water-meadows.

POA TRIVIALIS (Rough-stalked Meadow Grass).—Fine for damp soil.

Grasses, Ornamental.—Fine for mixing in a green state with cut
flowers, or in a dried condition for the decoration of vases, winter
bouquets, etc. To have them in perfection gather them while quite fresh,
with the pollen on them. Cut with as long stems as possible, arrange
lightly in vases, and keep them in the dark till they are dried and the
stems become stiff. The Grasses may be divided into two sections, viz.,
those for bouquets or edgings, and those grown in the border or on lawns
for specimen plants. The class is numerous, but the following (which may
be found described herein under alphabetical classification) may be
mentioned:—

For bouquets and edgings: Agrostis, Anthoxanthum, Avena, Briza, Coix
Lachryma, Eragrostis, Festuca, Hordeum Jubatum, Lagurus, and Stipa
Pennata. For specimen plants: Eulalia, Gynerium, Panicum, Phalaris, and
Zea.

Gratiola Officinalis.—This hardy herbaceous plant bears light blue
flowers in July. A rich, moist soil is its delight. It is propagated by
dividing the roots. Height, 1 ft.

Green Fly.—Fumigate the infected plants with tobacco, and
afterwards syringe them with clear water; or the plants may be washed
with tobacco water by means of a soft brush.

Grevillea.—Handsome greenhouse shrubs, which require a mould
composed of equal parts of peat, sand, and loam. Give plenty of water in
summer, a moderate amount at other seasons. Ripened cuttings may be
rooted in sand, under a glass. Young plants may also be obtained from
seed. They bloom in June. Their common height is from 3 to 4 ft., but G.
Robusta attains a great height. Grevilleas will grow well in windows
facing south.

Griselinia Littoralis.—A dwarf-growing, light-coloured evergreen
shrub, which will thrive near the sea. It requires a light, dry soil,
and may be increased by cuttings.

Guelder Rose.—See "Viburnum."

Guernsey Lily (Nerine Sarniense).—Soil, strong, rich loam with
sand, well drained. Plant the bulbs deeply in a warm, sheltered
position, and let them remain undisturbed year by year. Keep the beds
dry in winter, and protect the roots from frost. They also make good
indoor plants, potted in moss or cocoa-nut fibre in September, or they
may be grown in vases of water.

Gumming of Trees.—Scrape the gum off, wash the place thoroughly
with clear water, and apply a compost of horse-dung, clay, and tar.

Gunnera Manicata (Chilian Rhubarb).—This hardy plant bears large
leaves on stout foot-stalks, and is very ornamental in the backs of
borders, etc. Planted in a rich, moist soil, it will flower in August.
It can be propagated by division. Height, 6 ft.

Gunnera Scabra.—Has gigantic leaves, 4 to 5 ft. in diameter, on
petioles 3 to 6 ft. in length. It prefers a moist, shady position, and
bears division. Makes a fine addition to a sub-tropical garden, where it
will flower in August. Height, 6 ft.

Gynerium (Pampas Grass).—This unquestionably is the grandest of
all grasses, and is sufficiently hardy to endure most of our winters. It
is, however, desirable to give it some protection. It requires a deep,
rich, alluvial soil, with plenty of room and a good supply of water.
Plants may be raised from seed sown thinly in pots during February or
March, barely covering it with very fine soil, and keeping the surface
damp. Plant out at end of May. They will flower when three or four years
old. The old leaves should be allowed to remain on till the new ones
appear, as they afford protection to the plant. It may be increased by
division of the root. Height, 7 ft.

Gypsophila.—Of value for table bouquets, etc. They will grow in
any soil, but prefer a chalky one. The herbaceous kinds are increased by
cuttings; the annuals are sown in the open either in autumn or spring.
They bloom during July and August. Height, 1 ft. to 3 ft.

F

Fabacea.—See "Thermopsis."

Fatsia Japonica.—See "Aralia."

Feather Grass.—See "Stipa Pennata."

Fennel.—Sow the seed in April, cover lightly with fine mould, and
when the plants are strong enough set them out 1 ft. apart. Cut off the
flower-stalks as soon as they appear, to prevent them running to seed.
The bed will last for years. (See also "Ferula.")

Fenzlia.—Elegant half-hardy annuals. Sow the seed on a peat soil.
If this be done in autumn, they will flower in April or May; if sown in
spring, they will bloom in autumn. Height, 6 in.

Ferns.—Most Ferns delight in a loose soil, an abundance of
moisture, and a warm, humid atmosphere. The stove and greenhouse kinds
are best cultivated in a mixture of sandy loam and peat. The hardy kinds
grow best among rock-work or in a shady border: a light, sandy soil
suits them. They may be increased by dividing the roots.

Ferns from Seed.—Collect the spore-fronds towards the end of
summer, just as the spore-cases begin to open. Place them on a sheet of
paper in a box for a few days, keeping it in a dry place. Most of the
spores will fall out, the others may be rubbed out with the hand. These
spores will keep good a long time, but are best sown within a year. Fill
the pots with good heavy loam, water freely, and apply a coating of
charcoal, coarse sand, and sphragnum moss, rubbed through a fine sieve.
Damp the surface, sow the spores thinly, and cover with glass. Keep the
soil moist by standing the pots for a time each day up to their rim in
water. No surface water should be given. Stand the pots in a warm, light
place in the greenhouse, but keep them shaded from the sun. When the
surface is covered with growth, prick out into pans or boxes, using a
rich, light soil. When they are large enough pot them off singly in
thumb-pots, re-potting as soon as these are filled with roots.

Ferraria.—See "Tigridia."

Ferula (Giant Fennel).—Strong-growing, hardy, herbaceous plants.
F. Gigantea has bright, glistening foliage, changing to a brilliant
orange, and attains a height of 8 ft or 10 ft. F. Tingitana is very
stately and graceful, growing 4 ft. high. They are easily raised from
seed, will grow in any garden soil, and flower in August and September.

Festuca.—An annual ornamental grass, which is grown best on a
loamy soil. Sow the seed in March, and keep moist till it germinates.
Height, 1 ft.

Feverfew.—This hardy perennial will grow in any soil and ripen its
seed freely. Young plants, obtained by sowing the seed early in spring,
are very useful for edgings; when planted alternately with, or in
proximity to, Lobelia a pretty effect is produced.

Ficaria Grandiflora.—A hardy perennial which thrives well when
planted under the shade of trees. It is increased by separating the
tubers in autumn, and produces its flowers in May. Height, 6 in.

Ficus Elastica (India-rubber Plant).—This thrives well in any
light, rich soil, or in loam and peat. Keep it moderately moist
throughout the winter, using tepid water. In summer any of the
artificial manures may be used. Sponge the leaves once a week to free
them from dust, and keep the plant well sheltered from draughts.
Cuttings with uninjured leaves will root in autumn in sand with a
bottom-heat of 65 or 75 degrees; or the cuttings may be taken in spring,
stem-rooting the slips. It flowers in May, and sometimes attains the
height of 20 ft.

Fig Palm.—See "Aralia."

Figs.—Though in some parts of our country Figs are cropped on
standards, as a rule they require to be trained on a wall having a
southern exposure. The soil should be a fairly good loam mixed with old
mortar and crushed bones, but no manure is needed. The end of March or
the beginning of April is the most favourable time for planting. The
trees should be firmly set, and the surface of the soil kept moist until
they are established. Manure may be given—preferably in a liquid
state—when heavy crops of fruit are being borne. Old and exhausted wood
may be cut away in April, but the knife must be used sparingly. The
branches should be trained to a distance of 10 in. apart, and the
fruit-bearing shoots may be pinched back with the thumb and finger at
the end of August. The fruit is borne on the previous year's growth.
They may be increased by layers, by suckers, or by cuttings of the young
wood placed in sand and plunged in a bottom-heat under glass. Brown
Turkey, Black Ischia, Yellow Ischia, White Marseilles, Brunswick, and St
John's are all good varieties for open-air cultivation, or for growing
in houses.

When grown under glass, Figs may be trained on trellises near the roof
of the house, or may be planted in tubs or pots, not allowing too much
root-room. At starting the temperature in the day should be about 60
degrees, and at night 55 degrees. More heat can be given as the plants
advance, keeping up a moist atmosphere, but taking care not to give too
much water to the roots. By pinching off the points of the shoots when
they have made five or six leaves a second crop of fruit will be
obtained. Use the knife upon them as little as possible. When the fruit
begins to ripen admit air, and as soon as it is gathered give liquid
manure to the roots every other day to encourage a second crop. When the
plants are at rest they need hardly any water.

Filberts and Cob Nuts.—These Nuts will succeed on any soil that is
not cold or wet. The bushes should be planted in October, when the
leaves have nearly all fallen. Make the soil firm about the roots and
give a mulching of stable manure. At the beginning of April the old and
exhausted wood may be cut away, as well as any branches that obstruct
light and air. Encourage well-balanced heads to the bushes by cutting
back any branch that grows too vigorously, and remove all suckers as
they make an appearance, except they are required for transplanting. The
crop is produced on the small wood. The best method of propagation is by
layers in November or any time before the buds swell in spring. The
process is simple, it merely requiring a notch to be made in a branch of
two or three years' growth, which is then pegged down 2 or 3 in. below
the surface. The following autumn it may be cut away from its parent,
pruned, and planted. They may also be grown from nuts sown in autumn and
transplanted when two years old. In Kent the bushes are kept low and
wide-spreading, by which means the harvest is more readily reaped. On a
fairly good soil they should stand from 10 to 14 ft. apart. Lambert's
Filberts, Frizzled Filberts, Purple Filberts are good varieties, the
former two bearing abundantly. Among the best of the Cobs may be
mentioned the Great Cob and Merveille de Bollwyller.

Fire Thorn.—See "Crataegus."

Flea Bane.—See "Inula" and "Stenactis."

Flower-Pots, Sizes of.—Various practices prevail at different
potteries, but the appended names and sizes are generally adopted. In
every case the inside measurement is taken.

Inches    Inches

SIZES. across Top. Deep.



Thimbles 2 2

Thumbs 2-1/2 2-1/2

Sixties (60's) 3 3-1/2


Fifty-fours (54's) 4 4

Forty-eights (48's) 4-1/2 5

Thirty-twos (32's) 6 6

Twenty-fours (24's) 8-1/2 8

Sixteens (16's) 9-1/2 9

Twelves (12's) 11-1/2 10

Eights (8's) 12 11

Sixes (6's) 13 11

Fours (4's) 15 13


Threes (3's) 17 13

Twos (2's) 18 14

Foam Flower.—See "Tiarella."

Fontanesia Phillyraeoides.—This shrub will grow in any soil, but
needs protection in severe weather. It may be propagated by layers or by
cuttings planted under glass. August is its time for flowering. Height,
10 ft.

Forget-me-not.—See "Myosotis."

Forsythia.—Any good soil suits these pretty shrubs. F. Suspensa
thrives best under greenhouse treatment, but F. Viridissima is quite
hardy. The former flowers in March, the latter in February. They may be
increased by layers or cuttings. Height, 10 ft.

Foxglove.—See "Digitalis."

Fragaria Indica (Ornamental Strawberry).—A rich or peaty mould
suits this half-hardy perennial. It may be saved through the winter by
protecting the roots, but seed sown in spring will generally fruit the
same year. It flowers in July. Height, 1 ft.

Francoa.—Hardy perennials bearing white flowers from June to
September. They like a good, warm soil. The only way of raising them is
from seed. They require a slight protection in winter. Height, 2-1/2 ft.

Fraxinella (Dictamnus).—This ornamental hardy perennial is
commonly known as the Burning Bush. It succeeds in any garden soil, and
is easily raised from seed, which ripens freely. If the flowers are
rubbed they emit a fine odour. It blooms in June. Height, 3 ft.

Freesia.—Remarkably pretty and graceful Cape flowers, possessing a
most agreeable perfume. The plants grow about 9 in. high and produce six
or eight tubular flowers on a stem. They are easily cultivated in a cool
greenhouse, frame, or window, and are invaluable for cutting, the long
sprays lasting from two to three weeks in water. The bulbs should be
planted early in the spring in rich, very sandy soil, and given the
protection of a cold frame in the winter. By successional plantings they
may be had in bloom from January to May. Put six to twelve bulbs in a
4-in. or 8-in pot, place in a sunny position in a cold frame, and cover
with damp cinder ashes to keep them fairly moist. When growth has begun
and the pots are full of roots, remove the covering of ashes, but keep
the pots in the frame, giving a little ventilation when the weather is
mild, and watering carefully when the soil appears dry. Protect from
frost by a covering of mats. For early flowering remove the plants to a
warm greenhouse when the flower spikes appear, keeping them as near the
glass as possible. When the buds are developed an occasional application
of weak liquid manure will prove beneficial.

Fremontia Californica.—A beautiful and somewhat singular wall
shrub, with large yellow flowers. Any soil is suitable for it, but a
south or west aspect is indispensable.

Fringe Tree.—See "Chionanthus."

Fritillarias (Crown Imperials, or Snake's Head Lilies).—Soil,
sandy loam, or well-drained, deep, rich mould. Plant in the open ground
in autumn; take the bulbs up as soon as the leaves decay, and preserve
them in a rather moist place. Increased by off-sets taken from the old
roots every third year. They are not so suitable for pot culture as for
outdoor decoration. They are quite hardy, and flower in the spring,
bearing clusters of pendent bell-shaped flowers surrounded with tufts of
fresh green leaves.

F. Meleagris are of dwarf, slender growth, and bear in early spring
elegant pendent flowers of various shades netted and marked with darker
colours. These are suitable for either the border or pots. Plant in
autumn.

Fruit Trees, the Pruning of.—Cut away all growths that have an
inward tendency, and do not allow any shoot to cross over or come in
contact with another; also keep the centres of the trees or bushes open.
The fruit of trees thus treated is not so liable to be blown down by the
wind, and the sun can more readily ripen it. If the ground is poor a
dressing of rotted manure worked into the soil will be beneficial to the
roots.

Fuchsias.—These like a warm and moist atmosphere. The hardy sorts
do well out of doors in rich, light soil. On the approach of frost cut
them down and cover the roots with 3 or 4 in. of coal dust, ashes, or
moss. Remove the ashes in April and thin out the shoots in May. They
will also grow well from cuttings taken off the old wood as soon as they
are 1 in. long, inserted in sand and placed under glass, or plunged in
dung at a temperature of 60 degrees. Cuttings will also strike in loam
and leaf-mould. If grown in pots, take them indoors before the frosty
weather begins, and give them very little or no water at all during the
winter. Keep them in a cool place, yet free from frost. Re-pot them in
the spring, trimming the branches and roots, and making a compost for
them of one-half mellow yellow loam, one quarter leaf-mould, and one
quarter old manure. Place them in a frame with bottom-heat, and water
and syringe them moderately while they are growing. When they are in
full growth never give them plain water, but always plenty of liquid
manure.

Fumitory.—See "Corydalis."

Funkia.—Ornamental plants which delight in a deep, light soil and
a warm, moist situation, without which they will not flower. They are
increased by division (which should not be too severe) and bloom in July
and August. Height, 1 1/2 ft.

Furze.—Enjoys a sandy soil. Increased by cuttings taken in spring
or autumn and placed in a shady border under hand-glasses. It is of
evergreen habit, and forms a dense and highly ornamental hedge. (See
also "Ulex.")